Woodend

Christmas in France is magnifique

CHRISTMAS IS CELEBRATED IN AN ESTIMATED 160 COUNTRIES AROUND THE WORLD AND THERE ARE MANY TRADITIONS ASSOCIATED WITH EACH. GEMLIFE WOODEND HOMEOWNER AND FRENCH-BORN CHEF, CHANTAL MORITZ, GIVES US AN INSIGHT INTO A TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS IN FRANCE, A CHERISHED PART OF HER CHILDHOOD.

“France was mainly Catholic; therefore, the celebration of Christmas is very important for French people. Things changed over the years due to migrations, and new people arrived with different cultures and religions. But I shall tell you about my childhood and the traditions of that era,” said Chantal.

“Despite the religious celebration, we celebrate Christmas on the eve of 24 December, and it is firstly a family reunion. We have the Christmas tree and the presents, and it is always a great joy to prepare for the event.

“Because everyone is working on that day, we usually went to parents or grandparents who would prepare the meal. In my case, Dad, who was a chef, was cooking and I can tell you it was always something delicious and unforgettable.

We would start to eat around 9pm with the aperitif and canapés, then a seafood platter, and the foie gras (duck liver).

“We have a break with `le trou normand’, an apple sorbet with Calvados, which is refreshing and helps the digestion. Then comes the main course, the traditional turkey, but it changed a bit over the years with game meat, goose, duck or even some frozen kangaroo from Australia! Green salad follows, then the cheese platter.

“At around 11.30pm we would go to Midnight Mass, perfect time for a digestive rest. Back home around 1.30am, we open the presents and eat the dessert, the Yule Log.

“Having been brought up in boarding school, going home for Christmas was such a joy. But as an adult in Australia, I went back to Paris and surprised my mum a few times on Christmas Eve.

Always freezing and sometimes snowing, but I still remember her shiny eyes when she saw me – that was Christmas for me!

“In Australia, it is summer, hot and holiday time; it is a different atmosphere. In France, it is winter, cold with snow and we only have one day off, on Christmas Day.

“I have no family in Australia, and I live on my own, so Christmas this year will be with my friends – they are my family,” said Chantal.

Dinde de Noel Farcie

Christmas Roast Turkey

(Serves 8)

Time 3 hours

INGREDIENTS

  • 3kg turkey, liver chopped
  • 100g crustless white bread, chopped
  • 150ml milk
  • 150g minced veal
  • 150g minced pork
  • 250g jarred or canned whole porcini mushrooms, stems chopped, caps cut into 5mm dice
  • 2 eggs
  • 100ml cream
  • 150ml white wine
  • 50ml port
  • 50ml cognac
  • 60g butter, softened
  • 1kg chestnuts, peeled and cooked jarred or canned or vacuum-packed
  • Salt and pepper

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C. In a large bowl, mix the bread with the milk, porcini mushrooms, veal, pork, port, cream, eggs, 150g chopped chestnuts, and turkey liver. Season with salt and pepper. Pack the stuffing into the turkey. Using kitchen string, tie the legs together and the wings together. Brush the butter all over the bird. Season outside with the salt and pepper.

Set up the turkey in a roasting pan, transfer to the oven, and roast, basting the bird often, for 2 hours 30 minutes. Add the chestnuts around the bird 30 minutes before the end to warm them up.

Transfer the turkey to a cutting board and remove the string. Cover loosely with foil and let stand for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, skim the fat off the pan juices in a flameproof casserole dish, add the wine and bring to the boil, then add the cognac and simmer for 20 minutes, until slightly thickened and well flavoured.

Pour into a warmed sauceboat.

Spoon the turkey stuffing into a bowl. Carve the turkey and arrange on a warmed platter with the chestnuts. Serve with the stuffing and the juice.

Bûche de noel

Yule Log

(Serves 6)

Time 1 hour 30

INGREDIENTS

Cake

  • 120g sugar
  • 100g all-purpose flour
  • 4 eggs, separated
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla
  • Pinch salt

Syrup

  • 125g sugar
  • 50ml Cointreau
  • 150ml water

Chocolate ganache

  • 300g dark chocolate
  • 300ml cream
  • 100g orange marmalade
  • 70g almond meal

Method

Preheat the oven to 220°C. Line a 20 by 30 cm sheet pan with baking paper.

Make the cake: In a bowl, beat the egg yolks with sugar and vanilla until light and thick enough to leave a ribbon trail.

In another bowl, beat the egg whites with the salt until stiff.

Sift the flour over the egg yolk mixture and gently fold in. Then gently fold in the beaten whites.

Spread the batter on the sheet pan. Transfer to the oven and bake until lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes.

Make the syrup: In a small saucepan, bring the sugar to a simmer with 150ml of water, stirring to dissolve the sugar, boil for 1 minute, then remove the pan from the heat and stir in the Cointreau.

When cooked, invert the cake onto a clean, damp kitchen towel; wait 1 minute or so for the cake to soften slightly. Gently peel off the paper but leave it on top of the cake. Turn the cake over onto the paper.

Make the chocolate ganache: In a small saucepan, combine the cream with the chocolate and melt over low heat until barely simmering. Remove the pan from the heat, add the marmalade, the almond meal, some Cointreau if you wish, stir with a wooden spoon, and let cool slightly.

Brush the syrup on the warm cake and spread a layer of chocolate ganache leaving a 1cm border. Roll up the cake, using the baking paper as a guide, then wrap it and refrigerate until chilled. To finish, spread the remaining chocolate ganache over the top of the cake.

Bon appétit!