Live to surf, surf to live – It’s in the motion of the ocean

KELLY SLATER ONCE SAID, “SURFING IS LIKE THE MAFIA, ONCE YOURE IN – YOU’RE IN. THERE’S NO GETTING OUT.” AS WE APPROACH THE START DATE OF THE NOOSA FESTIVAL OF SURFING, GEMLIFE, A STRATEGIC PARTNER OF THE EVENT, HAD THE PLEASURE OF INTERVIEWING NEW RAINBOW BEACH RESIDENT AND EXPERIENCED SURFER RICK MCGANN.

With the festival taking place from 3 to 12 March, the company is very proud to sponsor this iconic event that provides surfing opportunities for both experienced and amateur surfers. What better way to inspire more residents to give surfing a go than to chat with a true surfing veteran who’s been riding the waves for 53 years?

Rick and his wife, personal trainer Ann Trembley, are in the process of moving into their new GemLife Rainbow Beach home and couldn’t be happier choosing to downsize, with Rick telling us the best part of the transition is living two minutes from the surf.

“I’ve been a long boarder since 1971, but after living on the central coast for over 50 years, it just got too hectic and we wanted a slower pace. So we downsized from a three-bedroom suburban house to a two-bedroom GemLife home which suits me just fine. More time for surfing and living the dream!” Rick tells us.

Although Rick has no plans to compete, this year he is going to join the local Bonny Hills Long Boarders Club, also known as the Mal De Mer Longriders, to ride the waves with old surfing buddies.

“I haven’t surfed in over a year because we have been organising our move, but normally I’d be surfing every day of the week. I’m really looking forward to getting back into it once we settle in.”

Rick, who has surfed beaches in Hawaii and the Maldives, used to surf with the same crew between 1997 and 1999, and is looking forward to hitting the pipeline with them again, finally enjoying his retirement and surfing every day.

“I can thank my wife for the move. I have three boards – two nine-footers and an 8.2-footer – and can’t wait to wake up and decide which one to surf depending on the weather and waves each morning. Retirement is bliss,” Rick sighs.

“It’s all about nature and having fun with mates these days. I’m 65 and just want to ride the waves and enjoy the ocean again. I want to be an average guy now who gets out for a daily surf and enjoys being at one with nature and appreciating the camaraderie amongst old mates.”

Rick added that he would take interested residents out on the water to give surfing a go, because there may just be some more Mal De Mers among the Gemlife Rainbow Beach community.

“My advice for anyone wanting to try surfing is to be patient, take your time, and enjoy every moment. A few lessons wouldn’t go astray either,” Rick laughs.

“A lot of people don’t understand the surf, the currents, and how the ocean works, so if that’s what’s holding you back, come and give it a go with me. I’ve grown up in the ocean, and all I can say is that surfing is exhilarating.

“You and nature – it’s a thrill you get when you ride the wave!”